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If you want to get the maximum storage life out of your fresh fruits and vegetables, then you need to know what the storage conditions are for each specific fruit or vegetable. This page provides that information
Long storage life also depends on careful handling. Most fruits and vegetables are easily bruised if not handled carefully. When harvesting, treat produce gently. Most produce should be washed after harvest and before storage, but there are some exceptions. Delicate berries should be rinsed in cold water just before consuming. Washing berries before storage will hasten the decay process. While potatoes store better with a fine layer of soil left on the skin, avoid leaving clumps of soil on potatoes as this will only encourage spoilage.
Several vegetables benefit from post-harvest curing. Curing heals injures from harvesting operations. It thickens the skin, reducing moisture loss and affording better protection against insect and microbial invasion. Curing is usually accomplished at an elevated storage temperature and high humidity. An enclosed home storage area with a space heater can provide the conditions effective for curing some crops.
Root crops such as beets, carrots, rutabagas, parsnips and turnips can be left in the ground into late fall and early winter. A heavy mulch of straw will prevent the ground from freezing so the roots can be dug when needed. Many people prefer the taste of these crops after they have been frosted because their flavors become sweeter and milder. But make sure to finish harvesting these crops before the ground freezes solid, or you will have to wait until spring to dig them out.
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Sweet
and hot peppers:
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Pumpkins
and winter squash: Harvest mature fruit with hard rinds (ones
that resist fingernail pressure) just before frost. Leave the stem
on when cutting from the plants to prevent decay. Cure for 10 days
at 80 to 85°F. The one exception is acorn squash: store at 45°F
after harvest. (Curing acorn squash will lead to stringiness.) |
Apples:
Late maturing apples are best suited for storage. Store in baskets
or boxes lined with plastic or foil to help retain moisture. Always
sort apples carefully and avoid bruising them. Store apples as close
to 32°F as possible, a temperature of 30 to 32°F is ideal. Because
apples give off a gas, ethylene, that will hasten the ripening of
other fruit, store apples separately from other crops if possible.
Boxed apples need to be kept in a cool, dark spot where they won't
freeze. Freezing ruptures all of an apple's cells, turning it into
one large bruise overnight. The usual solution is to store apples in
a root cellar. But root cellars often have potatoes in them, and
experts say that apples and potatoes should never be stored in the
same room. This may seem incongruous, but there is a reason. As they
age, potatoes release an otherwise harmless gas that makes apples
spoil faster. If you can keep the gas away from your apples, they
will keep just fine. Just don't store them right next to potatoes.Prevent contact between apples stored for the winter by wrapping them individually in sheets of newspaper. The easiest way to do this is to unfold a section of newspaper all the way and tear it into quarters. Then stack the quarters. Avoid sections printed with colored ink, which contains poisonous heavy metals |
Pears:
For good flavor and texture, ripen pears after harvest. Pick pears
when they are fully mature, firm in texture and light green in
color. Ripen pears by placing them in a room at 60 to 65°F for 1 to
3 weeks. Once pears ripe, the fruit is soft and a yellow-green
color, transfer to the refrigerator and store at 29 to 32°F and 90%
humidity. |
Many fall-harvested crops lend themselves to long term storage. The following storage conditions are recommended for extended shelf life and maximum eating quality of fall produce:
Many fall-harvested crops lend themselves to long term storage. The following storage conditions are recommended for extended shelf life and maximum eating quality of fall produce:
| Storage Temperature, Humidity & Storage Life of Selected Fruits and Vegetables1 | |||
| Commodity | Temperature (°F) | Relative Humidity (%) | Storage Life |
| Apples, late season | 30-38 | 95 | 2-6 months |
| Beet, bunched | 32 | 98-100 | 10-14 days |
| Beet, topped | 32 | 98-100 | 4-6 months |
| Broccoli | 32 | 95-100 | 10-14 days |
| Brussels Sprouts | 32 | 95-100 | 3-5 weeks |
| Cabbage | 32 | 98-100 | 3-6 weeks |
| Carrot, bunched | 32 | 95-100 | 2 weeks |
| Carrot, mature | 32 | 98-100 | 7-9 months |
| Cauliflower | 32 | 95-98 | 3-4 weeks |
| Celeriac | 32 | 97-99 | 6-8 months |
| Celery | 32 | 98-100 | 2-3 months |
| Garlic | 32 | 65-70 | 6-7 months |
| Horseradish | 30-32 | 98-100 | 10-12 months |
| Kale | 32 | 95-100 | 2-3 weeks |
| Kohlrabi | 32 | 98-100 | 2-3 months |
| Onion, dry | 32 | 65-70 | 1-8 months |
| Parsnip | 32 | 98-100 | 4-6 months |
| Pears | 34-36 | 95 | 2-4 months |
| Pepper, sweet | 45-55 | 90-95 | 2-3 weeks |
| Potato, late | 50-60 | 90-95 | 5-10 months |
| Radish, winter | 32 | 95-100 | 2-4 months |
| Rutabaga | 32 | 98-100 | 4-6 months |
| Squash, winter | 50 | 50-70 | Variable |
| Tomato, ripe | 46-50 | 90-95 | 4-7 days |
| Turnip | 32 | 95 | 4-5 months |
1From Knott's Handbook for Vegetable Growers
[General picking tips and a guide to each fruit and vegetable] [How
much do I need to pick?
(Yields - how much raw makes how much cooked or frozen)] [Selecting
the right varieties to pick] [All
about apple varieties - which to pick and why!] [Picking tips for Vegetables]
[ Strawberry picking tips]
[ Blueberries picking tips]

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